ITINERARY

Day 1. Huaraz (3,048m) – Musho – Base Camp/Refugio***

We depart from Huaraz to Musho, the starting point for Huascarán. After loading our gear onto burros, we hike with day packs to Huascarán Base Camp (4350m), a 4 to 5-hour trek.

Day 2. Base Camp – Camp I

As we ascend above Base Camp, the route becomes more challenging, navigating around large glacially polished granite slabs. We pass Moraine Camp, just below the glacier, before reaching the ice edge. Another 2 hours of glacier travel brings us to Camp I at 5300 meters. Porters will carry much of the group gear to this camp.

Day 3. High Camp I – High Camp II

We ascend to High Camp II, located in La Garganta (The Throat), a broad saddle between the north and south summits. The route takes us through a fragmented glacier with short sections of technical climbing, including ice up to 60 degrees. Porters will assist by carrying some of our group gear.

Day 4. High Camp II–Summit Huascaran South–High Camp II

It is summit attempt day! We leave High Camp II at 2 a.m. and follow a flat trail, crossing crevasses and avalanche zones until reaching the summit ridge. From the top, we enjoy breathtaking views of the Cordillera Blanca and Cordillera Negra. Then descent back to High Camp II. The climb takes from 12 to 15 hours approximately.

Day 5. Reserve Day

Reserve summit day, in case of bad weather. This day can also be used for rest.

Day 6. High Camp II – Base Camp

After breakfast, we organize and leave camp, descending to Base Camp, passing through Camp I and Moraine Camp. The walk takes approximately 6 to 7 hours.

Day 7. Base Camp – Musho – Huaraz

Descend to Musho where our private vehicle is waiting to take us to Huaraz. The walk takes from 4 to 5 hours approx.

About the climbers hut ***

There is a comfortable climbers hut here where we can take advantage of the good food and easy accommodation the hut offers.

WHAT´S INCLUDED?

Included

• Briefing
• IFMGA certified Mountain Guide
• Cook
• Porters
• Donkey driver
• Donkeys
• Personal tent
• Tents: Kitchen tent and dining tent
• Utensils, fuel and kitchen equipment
• Food during the expedition
• Private transport for all staff and members
• Collective technical equipment
• Basic First Aid kit
• Huascaran National Park entrance fee
• Farewell lunch or dinner

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Excluded

• Airfare to and from Lima
• Transfer Lima - Huaraz - Lima
• Hotels
• Laundry
• Food and drinks in the city
• High altitude travel/Health/accidents Insurance
• Personal climbing equipment and clothing
• Other tours

REQUERIMENTS

Prior experience in snow and ice climbing is essential.

Fitness and Acclimatization:

• It is essential to be in excellent health, good physical condition, and properly acclimatized to the altitude.

Insurance:

• Having suitable insurance is crucial for high altitude activities. Please ensure your policy has the appropriate level of coverage.

WHAT TO WEAR AND PACK

Clothing List

• Wool/blend socks
• Underwear
• Base layer: top and bottom
• Softshell climbing pants
• Outer pants: waterproof and preferably with side zips on legs (Gore-Tex)
• T-shirt: synthetic or wool
• Mid-weight top: synthetic or wool
• Softshell jacket: this should be a windproof nylon/synthetic blend jacket
• Outer jacket: waterproof with a hood (Gore-Tex)
• Insulated jacket: synthetic or down
• Gaiters – must fit over mountain boots
• Mountaineering gloves – lightweight
• Mountaineering gloves – medium to heavyweight
• Warm Hat: that covers your ears and fits under a helmet
• Sunhat: to protect your face and neck
• Buff

Equipment List

• Mountaineering boots: suitable for above 6000m.
• Approach/trekking shoes
• 60-75 L backpack
• Duffel bag with lock
• Trekking backpack
• Harness with adjustable leg loops
• Helmet
• Ice axes
• Technical ice tools
• Crampons
• Belay device
• Carabiners: 3 locking and 4 or more regular
• 5m x 7mm prussik cord
• 120cm sewn slings: 2
• 22cm ice screw – 3
• 100% UV protection Sunglasses
• Sun cream: SPF 50 or above
• Lip balm with UV protection
• Headlamp with fresh and spare batteries
• Water bottle
• Personal first aid kit: (Band-Aid’s, ibuprofen, personal medications, etc.)
• Camera
• Trekking poles
• Sleeping bag: lightweight and rated to approximately -10ºC
• Sleeping pad: Thermarest
• Toiletry bag: include toilet paper, hand sanitizer and small towel
• Stuff sacks
• Personal solar charging system